Fancy playing a game of chess, or simply watching regulars battle it out? Here are a few ideas for places to play chess in Paris, from historic spots to newer venues.
The Most Iconic: Jardin du Luxembourg
Behin the Senate, right next to the tennis courts, you’ll find the famous chess tables in the Jardin du Luxembourg. Chess enthusiasts come here every day to play in this historic setting and, when the weather is nice, it is by far one of the most pleasant places to play.
The usual rule is “winner stays on” for the next game. And be warned: you’ll often find some seriously strong players stopping by.
It is recommended that you bring your own pieces and chess clock, as otherwise you may have to rely on the players already there and whatever equipment they happen to have. You’ll find people playing (almost) every day, from around midday onwards.
A popular meeting point for Paris’s chess community, you’ll often see the same faces — true chess aficionados who started playing long before 2020 and the game’s new wave of popularity, boosted by the Netflix series The Queen’s Gambit and the lockdowns.
And even if you don’t play, the chess tables at the Luxembourg Gardens are worth a visit simply for the atmosphere!
The Chicest: Blitz Society
Just a short walk from the Luxembourg Gardens, you’ll find a completely different atmosphere at this bar, which recently opened on Rue du Sabot, right next to Saint-Germain-des-Prés.
The venue is beautiful, with its elegant wooden chess sets, old photographs of famous champions, and carefully designed decor. The downside? It’s expensive. You have to pay to access a chessboard (no need to bring your own pieces here), and you are required to purchase a drink.
You’ll find people looking for a game at almost any time of day. The bar also regularly organizes small tournaments that are open to beginners. Once again, you’ll often see familiar faces — and many players who start out at the Luxembourg Gardens eventually make their way to the “Blitz,” and vice versa.
The Friendliest: Le Canal
“Le Canal” is a chess club that hosts events every Friday evening at a bar opposite the Gare de l’Est: Café Les Deux Parisiens.
The chess events only take up part of the bar, so you can drop by on Friday evenings from 8 p.m. simply to have a drink, chat, and see what’s going on, without necessarily taking part in the tournaments.
The Friday-night chess tradition around Gare de l’Est has been going on for a long time among Parisian players, and newcomers are particularly welcome. It is also possible to play friendly games alongside the tournament. In that case, it is best to bring your own pieces and chessboard.
The Most Convenient: ChessBars
Don’t feel like crossing the whole of Paris to play chess? That’s exactly what ChessBars are designed for: organizing chess evenings in different bars across the capital.
The venues change regularly, and events are announced in advance, so all you have to do is find the one taking place near you on the ChessBar app.
The evenings generally take the form of small rapid-chess tournaments. You usually don’t need to bring your own equipment, as chessboards are provided on site. Come alone or with friends, order a drink, and you’ll soon find yourself playing against complete strangers.
It’s up to you what appeals most: an improvised game in the sunshine, a tournament against strangers, or simply watching regulars battle it out.
Whatever you choose, here’s one piece of advice: come prepared to lose a few games before you start winning. 🙂
In collaboration with Mathieu P., a chess teacher since 2020. He teaches both children and adults, in Paris and online. A former Paris Youth Chess Champion, he gave up competitive chess to devote himself to sharing his passion for the game. Drawing on his teaching experience, he created a blog, http://www.coursdechecsaparis.com, where he offers advice on learning to play chess.
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